September 04, 2006

First, lemme give you the good news.

The Captain's Linen Jacket is all seamed up with knitted on neckband and intarsia stripes worked up on the front and back. Woo hoo! Here are sneaky peeks:

spring2006_linenjacket_neck_thumb.jpg spring2006_linenjacket_stripes_thumb.jpg

Now the bad news. It is not finished, because it has no zipper. And the reason that it has no zipper is because the zipper that I have - which is the 35 cm zipper ordered through Phildar for this particular jacket - is too short. spring2006_linenjacket_zipper_thumb.jpgAfter I checked the schematics, measured my front pieces and verified that everything is the way that it should be, I noticed that this pattern calls for a 35 cm zipper for both the 5 year old AND 7 year old sizes. In all fairness to Phildar, I have to admit that I understand why they did this. Zippers in France are available in increments of 5 cm when longer than 15 cm. Other lengths can sometimes be special-ordered through some, but not all, notions shops (like my beloved La Mercerie in La Croix Rousse), but Phildar does not take these special orders because they do not fabricate these notions themselves. If Phildar suggested a 40 cm zipper for the 7 year old size instead of the 35 cm one, you'd have to sacrifice the rolled hem of the jacket. But this is an element that I would like to keep and sewing a zipper along the entire length of the jacket would flatten it out. (In the pattern the rolled hem is not sewn to the zipper.) Still, I think that a 38 cm zipper would be a better fit for this jacket. Here's to hoping that La Mercerie can special-order one in the right color and in that length, because sometimes it's a no go. Oh, well. Instead of griping further, basically I can:

a) Do what the pattern writers expect me to do by sewing a 35 cm in length zipper onto a 38 cm in length cardigan (not counting the rolled hem, which is an element I want to keep), even though the front edges will probably get all puckered in an unattractive fashion. OR...

b) If possible, special order a 38 cm in length zipper (notions shops only carry them in increments of 5 cm, hence my having to special order it) even though this delays my boy wearing his jacket for a few more days. I'm also tempted to order the 40 cm from Phildar and cutting off the 2 cm in excess because this zipper is nicer and the perfect color, unlike the one I can get at the notions shop, but it might take a REALLY long time to arrive. (Oops. Strike that part. This wouldn't work because this is a jacket zipper that needs to be opened at the bottom.

Sigh. I choose option b.

While I wait for the notions shop to open (isn't just my luck that it's closed on Mondays?), here's a little personal fashion blab for those who are interested in a peek at what I'd like to knit and sew this fall:

I've always been fascinated by corsets and bustiers and have worn tops or dresses inspired by them for years. Unlike all my aunts and my cousins, upon whom the family gene pool decided to bestow generous bra sizes, I got the short end of the stick in the boobage department. But the family gene pool decided to make up for its boobage stinginess with me by giving me a particularly small waist, so I've long held a fascination for garments that emphasize that body part. sketchbook_corsettops.jpgMany pages of my designer sketchbook shows photos of corsets, bustiers or corset-style belts with rough sketches I've made of corset-inspired blouses and tops. [Here is a peek at one of those sketches, which I drew back in January.] And let's not forget bustier dress-style top or my recycled outfit of last March, which featured a denim bustier (layered, of course...again, I love layering) made from an 80s jean skirt I got from a thrift shop. In short, waist emphasis is a look I've always favored and as a result it manages to show itself in some way in the designs I've presented at fashion school (including my dress* for the end of the year fashion show; it was a blousy baby doll number with a smocked waist-hugging wide belt in the same fabric), and I have a feeling this detail will always find its way in the clothes I'll be designing afterwards.

*I'll try to remember to show it when school lets back in. It was kept to be shown in Paris so I don't have it here at home.

fall2006_lagerfeld_thumb.jpgAnyway. Due to my little "thing" for this look, you can bet that I'm personally all over the bustiers and corsets that are popping up for next season. A few of my favorite haute couture looks are Lagerfeld's bustier and Prada's corset, because theirs are cut in masculine fabrics in neutral colors and shown layered, which takes away from the possible "too much" effect a bustier or corset can have as casual wear. fall2006_dolce_thumb.jpgAs for knits, Anthropologie has a knit corset that looks like it was inspired by Dolce and Gabbana's "snow bunny" knit corsets. As for all the bustier/corset patterns I've seen, my absolute favorites are the crochet corset (which reminds me of the sketch I made back in spring) in Rowan 40 and Kim Hargreaves's "Soul" from the Calmer Collection, which I knit for my sister back in summer 2003:

fall2006_rowancorset_thumb.jpg rowan_soul_thumb.jpg

And that's the end of my personal fashion chat for today. If there are others who also like the look I blabbed about today (I know that there are others who don't, and you can just save your typing fingers there :-), feel free to share your favorites with my corset/bustier lovin' heart!

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27 comments to this entry:

It's not fun to wait, but you chose the wise option. And thank you for the fabulous fashion show. I know that when your school opens the doors and you start with your studies again, there will be less knitting and blogging time for the Rabbit, but I look forward to see pictures of your dress.
Yes, we are very interrested in what you are going to knit and sew - that's why we're stalking your blog - duh... ;-) And I just LOVE the style you're describing here :) It's going to be a great season at fluffa's, I'm sure about it. I used to have a very small waist as well, but I seem to have lost it somwhere along the past 15 years...
I love the look too, but alas, lack the "fill" for it. But still can love the look! Your design idea sounds wonderful, you're putting alot of thought into it and I hope to see how it comes along in the near future! There is a book by a Valerie Steele called The Corset Book (on Amazon) - maybe for you? Thanks for the post, hope the best zipper comes along quickly for you and the Captain :)
Oh it is so hard to wait when you are so close to being finished! But of course we know you will not settle and want boy-o's jacket to be perfect!!! I like the corset look but I think it would lok better on you than me! That Rowan ou kit for your sister is beautiful! I remember there was a little tube-top thingy in one of the interweave knits- by Veronique Avery. I liked it but can't imagine how I would wear it- I thought about layering....if I find it I'll let you know which issue it was in!!
oooh...good luck with the whole zipper incident and hope it arrives really the meantime, you should drink a ton of margaritas and watch a bunch of movies. love your corset ideas and pictures/links...very fun! If I find any I'll pass them on!
I think you made the right choice about the zipper. The Captain's sweater needs to have the perfect zipper. I love the corset look too! Can't wait to see what you come up with.
I am digging the knit corsets in particular - love the anthropologie number. I started and ripped soul a while ago. You'll have to give me your thoughts on that one. I love it, but will it stay up? Is it wearable? I have a little green "almost corset" in the works and have been debating whether to resume work on it or leave it until next summer. With this little nudge, perhaps I'll return to it. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Pity about the zipper--don't you hate it when you THINK you've got everything under control but then . . . don't? The corset pictures are lovely. I like that general style, too, but don't have the figure to wear them. Such a shame!
Oh I hate it when things like that happen! I don't wait well. I think you made the choice though.
"right" choice... I noticed it as soon as I clicked. argh!
I love the look you're talking about. I, too, have a small bust measurement, but a small waist, too. I also have a generous back porch, so I guess waist emphasis is the way to go. I liked the Alice Jumper Top from Anthropologie, too. Not exactly a corset top, but it's got the same silhouette, with a cinched-in waist. product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=12517&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=alice It's so cool to see the runway stills now, after you e-mailed me about how designers will keep pieces of their inspiration in the look. They make more sense now.
Oooooooooh, that's a good one. I hadn't seen that one. I love the pleats at the hem.
Possible third option: Install the short zipper without squishing the knit. Then use an alternate closure method other 3-inches. Such as hook and eye or an I-cord tie. I'm sure you could come up with something. And in the end, it could be considered a design feature.
That would work, but unfortunately another closure in addition to a zipper is not a practical option for a jacket to be worn by my son. He needs the jacket to open and close easily and quickly or I run the risk of him not wanting to wear it. Boy knows what he likes :-)
I am a bellydancer, and I just found this fabulous site: Ah the gorgeousness of the nipped-in waist! Creating something like this is now on my to-do list.
Oh dumb zipper lengths! That's frustrating isn't it. There are a few places here in the US that I've ordered zips from. I can give you the addys if you end up needing hem. Fingers crossed for special orders for the kiddo's sweater.
I kept coming back to check to see if the modeling shots were up....sorry to hear that the jacket is lacking a zipper. Love that it all coms so/sew easy to you. Looking forward to seeing the jacket finito and the upcoming knitting and sewing season at fluffa!
Rabbit, you pretty much finished his jacket and maybe if you just special order the zipper and wait a few more days wouldn't hurt. You have to get it to look the way you invision it. I have my tongue sticking out looking at all this fashion runway designs! I think you have the greatest job. When I see everything you knit up using only the good quality yarn like Rowan & Philar, well, it has made make a pak with myself. I am going to try to use up 3/4 of my stash of yarns and then afterwards, I am going to buy myself enough of Rowan or something good like it to make a beautiful sweater for myself instead of out this Patons Classic Merino. It's fine but I sure would like to try to knit a sweater with quality yarn/
Good luck on the zipper! I hope it comes in soon.
Calmer corset, Calmer lace tops.. I'm with you. Its a lovely strange and springy yarn. I must finish that WIP in Calmer, now that you've reminded me.
Corsets, bustiers et al... I guess you have already have seen Annie Modesitt's Silk Corset (pattern available at her site) - it's on my to-do list. And just a minute ago, I ran across a French sewing blog with a nice bustier: Scroll down to the July 15 and 24 entries. Makes me want to sew one...
i too love the bustier/corset look, but i have the opposite issue... i'm quite (ahem) well-endowed, although my waist is a reasonable size, so that look tends to be a bit scandalous. i need to experiment more with layering, i think, which i don't do much of now. in other corsets, i was really fascinated by this gold tunisian crochet corset in vogue knitting... maybe a year ago? it had boning and was quite gorgeous. i could not for the life of me figure out how to get it to look good with boobage, though.
That top I mentioned before was in Knitscene- a photo is posted here: kind of cute. I see it in blues, greens, grays...
Isn't it srtange how fashion changes? A season or 2 ago, it'll be strange to see a strip of cloth across the mid-section. Now it looks oh-so-right. =)
so close...have faith...I for one hope option b works out parfait!
So, an autumn of corsets? Nothing else from Rowan 40? I loved "Celtic" so much I had to order the yarn, even though I have just started (late, I know) and am loving "Glad" from Rowan 39...they'll be jostling each other in the knitting basket!
Delurking to say that I really like those subtle stripes on the Captain's jacket!

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